She's baaa-aaack!

[monkeybard]

Where've I been? some of you may ask.  Others know that much, but little more.  For anyone who really wants to know, here's my account of NordicBoy's and my adventures in the UK.

19 Apr – Too many people checked in online for us to sit together on plane.  M stuck between nice woman and high-maintenance man.  Bleh.  Arrived London mid-afternoon; longish walk in search of food; finally decide on Indian place just a few blocks from hotel—v. yummy.  Early night.

20 Apr – Tube to Notting Hill, Portobello Road—v. cool; booths along street from one end to the other selling everything imaginable; bought v. pretty silver and amber ring; used 20p toilet—much nicer than you'd think.  Had v. yummy cupcake at Butterfly.  :)

Tube to Westminster Bridge; crossed bridge to South Bank for audio tour walk past County Hall, Nat'l Theatre Complex, to Globe.  Crossed Millennium Bridge and back.  Toured Globe Theatre; took many pics.  Crossed Millennium Bridge again to see St. Paul's.

Tube to Leicester Square; found Gielgud Theatre where Equus playing; got tix for show.  Had yummy Italian dinner just down the street from theatre.  Saw Equus.  Fantastic production!  Amazing horse design; incredible performances from all (although M. thought everyone was a little vocally tired, but still incredible); set, lights, sound – all fabulous.  Go see it if you can!

Tube back to King's Cross and hotel.  Sleep!

21 Apr – Tube to Lambeth North and the Imperial War Museum.  WWI & II area smelled v. odd, but displays were impressive and interesting.  M walked through the WWI trench (very quickly).  Tanks et al v. cool, including Little Boy.
Fish & Chips and cider for lunch at pub not far away.

Tube to Charing Cross.  M to Bravissimo (only half successful in quest, but better than not at all) while E to London Transit Museum Shop.  Walked to Leicester Square; stopped at Noel Coward Theatre to read odd, badly written, but positive reviews of Avenue Q – decide you shouldn't try to explain that show – also noted completely unfamiliar puppet character and fact that there's a guy playing Gary Coleman – v. odd.

Tube to hotel.  Checked email at net café around the corner.

Tube to Westminster to get London Eye tix and ice cream.  Rode London Eye – hope the pics come out well!  (Note: Enough of them did. :) )  Walked across Golden Jubilee Ped. Bridge to Leicester Square and had yummy tapas and sangria for dinner.

Tube back to hotel.  Tidy and pack for Bath.

22 Apr – Tube to Victoria; walk to Victoria Coach Station; coach to Bath; walk to B&B; walk to find food – steak and stilton Cornish pasties and soda for lunch, yummy.  Strolled around town:  abbey and baths; river – incl. maze; Pulteney Bridge; The Circus (where the shiny people live); The Royal Crescent (where the super-shiny people live); Royal Victoria Park.  Came across kids' choir – v. bad – singing odd selection of songs to pre-recorded music; part of St. George's Day festivities with 4000+ Scouts (100^th Anniversary of UK Scouting, we're told.)

Back to B&B for short crash.  Walked more; found dinner at Mai Thai – yummy; sleep. 

23 Apr – Breakfast followed by "Full English Breakfast" with good coffee <!> (First good coffee since arrival.)

Mad Max Tour Day:

45-min drive out to Stonehenge.  Stones are shorter than M expected – probably because couldn't get within a couple hundred feet of them.  :( Still v. cool, though.  Bought socks and a blue stone keychain.

15-20-min drive to Avebury.  Saw chalk horses along the way; also thatched cottages and many barrows.  Could walk around and touch stones at Avebury.  M found that they hummed when touched.  V.v. cool!  Henge itself very deep, 1-mile in diameter.

15-min drive to Lacock.  1^st day of filming "The Cranford Chronicles" with Judi Dench.  Looked Victorian by costumes.  No Dench sighting.  Yummy lunch at The George.  Strolled about taking pics; bought lovely warm gloves.

15-min drive to Castle Combe.  Drove through Tiddlywink on the way.  Castle Combe lovely, v. picturesque wee village with huge Mansion House Hotel.  This is where the shiniest of shiny people live/stay.  Strolled about taking pics; bought nothing.

30-min back to Bath.  Walked to B&B, continuing to collect pics of "Pub Signs of Bath" – still need The Raven.

Early dinner at Sally Lunn's, the oldest house in Bath and home of the Sally Lunn Bun.  Whatever you order, you'll get one of these, which is okay because they're v. yummy.  Strolled about gathering more pub signs, yet still need The Raven.

24 Apr – Believe I have completed (as far as possible without in-depth study) collection of Bath Pub Signs.

Collected rental car – '07 Peugeot with only 600 miles on it.  <!> E. did admirably first time driving on the left on narrow streets.

Went to Roman Baths.  Fascinating!  Learned much about radiant floor heating and ancient Roman customs.

Had cream tea at little café – yummy!  Can't go wrong with scones and clotted cream!

Visited Bath Abbey and Heritage Vaults.  Beautiful stained glass windows in the abbey!  Amazing ceiling – fan vaulting.  Strolled bat to B&B for chill time, then headed out for cheap dinner at O'Neill's (Irish pub chain) with tasty burgers and brews.  Sadly no ice cream to be had so wandered looking for some; none found.  Back to B&B for tea, sweets, and sleep.

25 Apr – Left Bath – accidentally taking B&B keys (oops!) – by car.  Drove to Glastonbury where we toured the abbey – both of us thought it was somehow more impressive than the intact ones we've seen – and learned about monastery life just prior to the Reformation through living history performer.  These stones hummed, too.  All v.v. interesting, and we beat the crowd of Italian tourists.

Left abbey and climbed the Tor to St. Matthew's Tower (which didn't hum.  M wondered if it was too far off the ley lines the others are on).  V. blustery but worth the climb.  Visited with grazing cows on the way down.  Stopped in the Abbey Gift Shop for postcards and stamps; then in a café for lunch.

Drove to Stratford.  Yay for GPS!  Checked into Guest House, bought groceries for b'fast, and then had dinner at Thespian's – Indian place recommended by dramaturg friend, and she was right!  Were mistaken for Canadians; M v. proud.

Strolled down to the river where M failed to catch a swan for a friend.  Expect the error was in trying to catch two; doesn't pay to be greedy.  M had pic taken geeking out in front of the RSC theatre.

Back to GH for desserty nibbles and sleep.

26 Apr – Proper b'fast at last: yogurt and granola!  Off to find net access at local library.  Success!  Off to post office to mail keys back to Bath B&B.  Off to Costa Coffee for a large latté (happy sigh).

Shakespeare's Birthplace:  Toured the Centre and then the house and garden.  House is bigger than ours!  Garden lovely and full of herbs, flowers.

Strolled through the RSC Gardens along the Avon to Holy Trinity Church where we saw Shakespeare's grave and the bust of him put up +/- seven years after his death.  Laurel wreath on grave has note that reads "Happy Birthday, Will".

Lunch at the Black Swan/Dirty Duck.  Hope to go back for ice cream after show tonight.

Took 30-minute boat ride along the Avon.  Relaxing and lovely.  Many swans.  Still failed to catch one except on film.

Stroll to Butterfly Garden, but don't go in.  Stroll back to GH to chill for a bit.  Leftover pizza for dinner; checked phone messages at home; made calls.

Off to Courtyard Theatre to see The Seagull …  Oh. My. Gods.  Went to see Ian McKellen; enjoyed everyone and everything.  Performances were outstanding across the board.  Set, lights, sound, et al, all excellent.  Discovered by chance the post-show discussion.  Happily surprised that there were no stupid questions.  (Yay for non-Americans!)  V. much hope that their world tour includes Seattle (or Vancouver, BC or Portland, OR).  Also learned in passing that Sylvester McCoy is playing the Fool in King Lear.  As if there weren't already ample reasons to want to see it!  They must come to Seattle!

27 Apr – Checked out of Guest House and headed for Morpeth.  Long drive; stopped at a Little Chef for some lunch; more driving.  M got snoozy until E woke her with the excited announcement of "Sheep on a bridge!"

Arrived at Beth & David's in Morpeth; met Laura (age almost 4) and Ben (age 14 months).  Ben had come down with chicken pox less than an hour before our arrival.  Fortunately we've both had them.

Had yummy late dinner of wine, shrimp salad, and spaghetti before turning in for the night.  Slept hard.

28 Apr – After whole family b'fast, headed over to Alnwick (pronounced Anick) Garden and Castle.  Enjoyed strolling through the grounds, which incl. a large water feature (the Cascade) and numerous pools and gardens.  Several smaller water features displayed various properties/physics of water.  E and M toured the Poison Garden – kept locked with guided tours only.  So interesting that M bought the companion book.

Had picnic lunch before the overcast rolled in and made it chilly.  Had snack in café before heading back to Morpeth.  Stopped in Morpeth to look around; bought cheese (Northumberland Reiver – so yummy!) and wine for evening.  Back to B&D's for postcard writing, tea, and Hobnobs.  Could get used to this quaint Brit tradition.

Dinner and chatting, then off to bed.

29 Apr – Drove out to Newcastleton over the Scottish border.  Walked out to the ruins of Mangerton Tower where we had a snack and chatted with local sheep.  Met two v. rude dogs on the way in, and also two friendly ones.

Drove to Canonbie and had tea at the Reivers Fayre Tearoom before finding the poorly signed Gilnockie Tower.  Took many pretty pics, but tower and Clan Centre locked up because it's Sunday.

Went to see a piece of Hadrian's Wall at Banks – East Tower.  V. cool.  V.v. old.  Saw half-ruined priory on way up so stopped to look on way back.  Looked around church – v. pretty.  Edward I stayed there three times.  V. nice woman was locking up priory but let us in for a few minutes since we wouldn't be back the next day.  Took many pics v. quickly.  She drew us a map of some particularly unmissable sights that we might visit tomorrow.  Learned that there are docks in the region that as recently as the 1920s wouldn't hire any Armstrongs.  Talk about holding a grudge!

Drove back to B&D's.  New travel show – Victoria's Empire – beginning on BBC1.  Must convince PBS to air it when it's available.  Another lovely dinner and dessert, then sleep.

30 Apr – Packed up, said good-bye, headed for Scotland.  Decided to see some of the unmissable sights mentioned yesterday.

Doubled back on yesterday's route to/through Newcastleton to Ettleton Kirkyard, then back down the hill to see the Milnholm Cross – oldest Armstrong relic.  Drove back through Newcastleton and on to the Hermitage.  V.v.v. large, impressive, imposing.  Standing over the "bloodiest valley" in the border region.  Five stories tall in huge stones.  Wow.  Stopped at Hermitage Chapel ruins where M. was surprised to find that of six graves, the only one fenced off with two large trees was for Agnes Armstrong.  Good on ya, Agnes.

Drove on for Edinburgh; lost the A7 in Selkirk.  Silly TomTom said nothing but quietly remapped the route.  V. scenic country, but both E and M tired of narrow winding roads by the time A7 finally regained (after backtracking a bit to the sign for Galashiels A7).  Reached Edinburgh at rush hour – 4pm.  D'oh!  Got turned about repeatedly until found parking lot not too horribly far from Beltane Fire Festival ticket office.  E went for tix while M waited and tidied up car a bit.

Got tix; checked into B&B – Ben Cruachan, same as in 1997 but recently under new ownership.

Dinner at Vittoria – still as good as remembered.  Plus black currant gelato.  Yummy!

Off to the Beltane Fire Festival!  Wandered about people watching and checking out the layout.  Festival started in pagan standard fashion – 30 minutes late.  Greenman appeared at acropolis and posed for too long considering how damned cold it was.  Joined by 2 dozen +/- torch bearers, 2 dozen +/- handmaidens, and the May Queen.  Finally began setting things on fire.  Much drumming!  :)

Many things going on at once.  Procession of May Queen and Greenman and entourage; black cloaked red people dancing and drumming with two giant red puppets cavorting naughtily (it is Beltane, after all – it's all about fertility); branches with blessing tied to them; dancing fairies (M got a rock from the green one.  She was v. sweet.); drums; fires; fairies; oh my!

M standing on rock to watch burning was surrounded quite silently by three of the cloaked red people; appreciated that they blocked the chilly wind and kept her warm until they went off elsewhere.

Eventually found way to back side of main bonfire – not yet burning.  Waited long time for procession with torches to come set it on fire.  V.v. cold waiting!  Finally arrived:  red people now uncloaked and nearly naked; white/floral clad handmaidens; May Queen and Greenman with blue attendant.  Circled two or three times before lighting fire.  V.v. hot even outside the barrier ring.  Procession left while red people stayed and cavorted.  M got "marked" (red smudged) by one.  Left bonfire and found May Queen and Greenman with handmaidens feasting to bardic singing.  Decided late, cold, fun, done.  Back to B&B for hot tea and cozy bed.

1 May – Happy Anniversary!

After yummy fruity b'fast, filled the gas tank (harder than it sounds0 and returned rental car.  Driving in Edinburgh is fucked up.

Took bus to Edinburgh Zoo.  Yay!  Saw many cool animals – many in need of new accommodations/enclosures.  Learned that they're just starting revamping enclosures, starting with the chimps.  All will take 15-20 years.  Wish them luck.  Loved that they have species that our zoo doesn't – incl. native N. American parrot that is extinct in N. America.  Go figure.

Saw Penguin Parade!  Gentus lead the way v. quickly; Kings took their time, esp. Colonel Nils Olav who seemed to be both inspecting the troupes and strutting his stuff.  Took many pics in the 20 minutes <!> it took Nils to complete the circuit.  Had a snack before catching the bus back to B&B for some chill time.  E went to find some unsecured wireless while M hung out and read for a bit.

Met up with

jenboo and N for dinner.  Tried to find pub from guide book, but failed.  Dinner at fabu Vittoria again instead, shared bottle of Proseco.  Decided over dinner to go on Ghost Hunter Tour that night.  Didn't make the 9:30, so took the 10:30 tour with Faith – which ended at midnight in the Canongate Kirk graveyard.  Spooky!  V. fun tour.  (Will note stories told later.)  Walked back to B&B.  Cold night, but not as cold as previous night.

 

2 May – B'fast of porridge with cream, honey, and malt whiskey.  Yum!  V. tired.  Slow-moving morning.

Walked to the Scottish Parliament for a look around outside and in.  Interesting bldg. design (interesting = v. odd until you read the architect's statement/idea/vision); v. nice inside, all light wood and cool, smooth stone.  V. pleasant.  Display of history and process/procedure of Scottish Parliament – all signs in English and Scots Gaelic.  :D

Strolled up the Royal Mile to Canongate Kirkyard; took pics of the places we'd been on Ghost Hunter Tour previous night.  Strolled farther to Cadenhead's where M bought 15-year-old cask-strength single malt while E looked around the map store across the street.

Strolled farther up; bought two small pieces of fudge; had light lunch at The World's End – v. good soup, fish cake, chips.

Strolled yet farther up; bought kilt hose (E - natural white; M – lovat green).

Strolled still farther up; peeked at the menu at The Witchery in prep for tonight's schmancy dinner.  Popped across the street to the Tartan Weaving Mill et al where there were many pretty things (incl. claymores on sale!) like women's kilted skirts, long skirts – but where M was disappointed in her search for anything new in Armstrong as they don't weave it there.  :(

Strolled last bit up to castle car park; took in view; strolled down path over train tracks and into Princes Street Garden.  Lovely.  Had a little sit-down.  Walked along Princes Street failing to find a bank with exchange rates posted.  Continued without success.  Walked back to B&B where M chilled while E went looking again for unsecured wi-fi.

Dressed for schmancy dinner at The Witchery – The Secret Garden Restaurant.  Met up with J & N along the Royal Mile.  M & J had the Buccleuch beef; E & N had the lamb.  All good!  Lovely Aussie Shiraz – Bella Stella? – with dinner.

Restaurant candle-lit only.  V. cool to watch the light change as the sun set.

Dessert:  M – Rhubarb panetone bread pudding with vanilla ice cream and a glass of dry white port.  Perfect.  E – 3-chocolate terrine with liqueur-soaked cherries.  J – Dark chocolate torte with lavender ice cream and a glass of Dalwhinnie 15-year.  N – Pudding sampler with all of the above plus passion fruit with sabayon, crème caramel.

Coffee – v. good.  A lovely, leisurely evening of dining and chatting with friends.  Cannot be beat.

Strolled back to B&B and made it to bed before 11!  Yay!

3 May – Walked down to Parliament again and from there hiked up to Arthur's Seat, pausing at St. Anthony's Chapel overlooking St. Margaret's Loch.  Beautiful views from the top!  Climbed down from craggy stone top to have a picnic snack on softer ground.  Carefully wended our way back down – much harder than the going up!  Wandered up and down the Royal Mile.  Finally found the Magnum Ecuador Dark ice cream bar we'd seen advertised our first day in London.  V. yummy.

Wandered Royal Mile more.  Went into St. Giles to view the beautiful stained glass, etc.  Learned a little about the cleaning and restoration work, and listened to someone having a lesson on the organ.  What a treat!

Wandered Royal Mile still more, then wandered leisurely back to B&B for a rest before dinner at pub – The Conan Doyle.  V. nice pub grub!  Steak and ale pie with mashers and veggies for M; nice bbq chicken sandwich with salad and chips for E.  Walking back to B&B ran into N & J.  Visited for a bit, then they and E went to check us all in online at net café nearby so E and M can actually sit next to each other on the flight home.  Yay!  M packed meanwhile.

Tea, bickies, and bed.

4 May – Checked out and met up with N & J.  Walked to tourist centre to hang out while E ran final errand up to Royal Mile.  Caught bus to airport.  At airport, J & M did some Scotch tasting and took advantage together of the "buy two save ₤10" deal.  Short flight to London.  Long flight from London to Seattle.  Watched "Music and Lyrics"; v. cute movie; must rent in order to watch properly.  V. pleasant Customs & Immigration guy at SeaTac.  Picked up luggage and made it home to a very loud and chatty kitty.  Yay!

Will post pics pretty soon.  Need to get them sorted and pick out the best to share.  You don't want to see all of them.  Trust me; there are a lot.

Comments

[indehed.livejournal.com]

icon love!

is your grandmother on fire yet???

[monkeybard]

I wish you luck. That is one damned expensive little island nation.

[indehed.livejournal.com]

Driving in Edinburgh is fucked up.

You're telling me. I live in the blasted country and I REFUSE point blank to drive in Edinburgh. I go as far as the park and ride and give up :)

Seems you've seen more of the history of the country than I have, lol.

[monkeybard]

...I REFUSE point blank to drive in Edinburgh.
A friend from England said the same about London. LOL We weren't nuts enough to drive there, though. Bath and Edingburgh were more than enough, thankyouverymuch.

Seems you've seen more of the history of the country than I have, lol.
That's what the guy I talked to on the Royal Mile was saying. Don't worry, if you came here, you'd probably know more about this place than I do because you'd be researching it for you trip. If it weren't for my infamous ancestors I wouldn't be nearly so informed as I am. ;)

[vflick.livejournal.com]

Yay! Welcome back! It sure sounds like you had a blast!

[monkeybard]

It was fabu, indeed! I'll post when I get the pics uploaded so you can see for yourself. :)

[devinam.livejournal.com]

what a fantastic trip! Sounds like it was just the right mix of busy and sight seeing combined with relaxing and enjoying the ambiance. :) Welcome home!

[monkeybard]

Just about, I think, yeah. Although my feet might argue there was a bit too much of both. I think we averaged about 10-12 miles of walking every day that wasn't a travel day. [!]

[carrot-cake67.livejournal.com]

Welcome back! I'm glad you had such a fabu time! And Happy 10th Anniversary!! What a wonderful way to celebrate it!

[monkeybard]

Thanks! E was saying he thought it would be fun to visit a different zoo every anniversary. I agreed and asked if I should start playing the lotto immediately upon our return or wait a day or two first. ;)

[carrot-cake67.livejournal.com]

That would be such a cool idea!!!!!

By the way, thank you for the postcard. We did get it before you returned state-side.